Model Steam Launch - Victoria/Puffin

This page is to track the selection and progress on my first attempt at a remote control steam boat. I have been at this off and on for a few years now and still need to find some time to finish it off. During this time I have found it difficult in some cases to find information or materials so hopefully the information here (and the links from the main model page) will help anyone following in my footsteps.

What it should look like when finished

Here are a couple of stock images from elsewhere to give the overall idea...

Selecting a Boat and Engine

The starting point was a special weekend event, back in 2003, hosted by Cheddar Models and the Cheddar Steam Club (alas these are both now gone, Cheddar ceased trading during the summer of 2005 and Stuart have taken over some of the designs). This provided the opportunity to see a variety of model boat and engine combinations and this finally led to the selection and purchase of Puffin (engine) and Victoria (boat). The idea is that this combination should provide enough challenge and interest but not prove too difficult for a beginner. Also worth considering is the Alexandra which is similar to the Victoria but slightly smaller. Another very popular choice is Borkum. The easier and cheaper choice might have been the Krick Anna boat (and at that time Cheddar Pintail engine). It comes down to budget, level of difficulty and personal taste. Although the range of Krick boats are currently available, getting new Cheddar engines and boilers is no longer an option, except the Puffin design which Stuart Models now offer.

Special thanks goes to Roger who let me take control of his impressive steam launch and who patiently answered many questions.

Some more views of a Victoria, this time taken at the International Model Boat Show, Warwick, November 2003.

Costs

This section is to provide a guide to the potential costs, with prices shown to the nearest UK pound and including VAT, as met from 2003 to 2005. Tools are not included as these are not considered specific to this model.

NB For 2009 the Puffing engine and boiler would need to be sourced from Stuart Models, provided as a complete and tested unit rather than a kit but now at around £860 with VAT!

The Engine and Boiler

The engine is the Puffin from Cheddar. This is a two cylinder, in line, double acting, oscillating engine. Double acting means that the steam pushes the piston from both directions alternately. Oscillating refers to the fact that the cylinders pivot (on something called a trunion) to control the inlet and outlet of steam, instead of the more usual valve gear driven by the crank. This gives a simpler build with less parts and should prove reliable. The cylinder bore and stroke have equal measurements and this is sometimes termed a square engine.

Cylinder Bore is 7/16" or 11mm
Cylinder Stroke is 7/16" or 11mm
( this means about 8cc in total)
Operating Pressure 45 psi or 3 bar

The engine was purchased as what they called the Puffin Vertical Deluxe Kit where Puffin is the engine, vertical refers to the boiler and deluxe means the kit includes a condenser unit and such niceties as a level glass to see the water level and a pressure gauge to see the boiler steam pressure. The boiler came with a certificate to show that it had been hydraulically tested to 90 psi or 6 bar, double the normal working pressure.

Other initial purchases included a gas tank and some steam oil.

1. A good starting point with the construction is to try a dry build. This is just a preliminary construction, only tightening with the fingers and without using any thread-lock. This proves that all the pieces have been correctly supplied (they were) and helps with a general understanding of how it all goes together. A parts explosion diagram is supplied and I found it useful to enlarge this from A4 up to A3.
   

   
   

2. Once happy with the dry build you can proceed to the actual construction. This involves stripping the engine back down and then rebuilding but using thread-lock (a small bottle of T42 nut lock anaerobic adhesive was supplied), tightening the screws and lubricating. To lubricate I put a few small drops of steam oil directly into the top and bottom of each cylinder. I also oiled the bearings, using the supplied syringe and blunted needle, to apply small amounts of a multigrade engine oil (same as you would use for a car engine). The construction is mostly straightforward but getting the springs and retaining clip in place is difficult. It should be possible to hold one spring compressed against the cylinder and then compress the other using the blade of a screwdriver but take care not to scratch the cyclinders.
   
   
3. Next step was to lag the boiler. This gives an authentic look but more importantly provides heat insulation. The wood is supplied with the kit, this should be kept dry, I put mine in the airing cupboard prior to use. A certain amount of cutting / filing is required to get some of the strips to fit around the various inlets and outlets of the boiler. The wooden strips can be glued on with CA or epoxy, I went the CA route (BSI range, from Helibits) which proved straightforward but care must be taken as it really bonds within seconds (I suggest wearing eye protection and having some debonder to hand).
   

   

   Once on, I followed up with a coat of spirit sanding sealer (Liberon, from Champions), if you prefer you can use a stain or oil to get a darker colour. I then covered with three coats of a clear satin finish outdoor varnish (Ronseal) before finally placing the brass banding around. When doing the banding be careful not to scratch the varnish, it is a bit fiddly so you may benefit from an extra pair of hands.
   
   

   
   

4. Next step will be to paint the funnel. I will be using an enamel paint with a base coat and then a white gloss.
   
   
5. Then you can paint the engine. I have decided to leave it as the brass and not paint.
   
   
6. The idea with the steam oil is that it goes in a displacement lubricator which mixes small amounts of the oil in with the steam as it goes into the engine to provide lubrication to the cylinders, pistons etc. A condenser unit then separates the used oil from the outlet steam before the clean steam is vented out through the funnel.
   
   Stuart can supply steam oil but you if you don't mind buying about 5 litres at a time then it will prove cheaper to go elsewhere, consider something like 460 Steam Cylinder Oil from Morris Lubricants (suitable for pressures up to 150psi).
   
   
7. A condensing oil trap unit is supplied, this 'scrubs' the blast steam coming from the engine, removes the used cylinder oil and passes clean steam to the funnel.
   As with the boiler you can lag this with wood for effect. There is not enough wood supplied in the kit for this, I used 6mm wide strip, this then requires 20 strips and each was cut to 59mm length.
   It is recommended to replace the silicon tubing with some copper pipe work and cocks.
   
   

   

8. The fuel is a a 30/70 propane/butane mix gas, this is made by Coleman (and can be purchased at Cotswold Outdoor). An adapter is fitted for use with the gas tank to supply the boiler.
   

   

   
   
9. A replacement propeller was obtained. The plastic one (three blade) which comes with Victoria has been replaced with a Brass version from Rivabo, 4 bladed, size 70mm diameter, right handed, M4 thread (code 544-71).
   

   

   
   

The Boat

The boat, the Victoria kit from Krick, is based on a 1905 steam launch by Simpson, Strickland & Co Ltd of Dartmouth. It is a 1:10 scale model which brings the model length to 1077mm, the beam to 253mm and the height 390mm. The hull is ABS plastic (ABS being Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene).

1. The first step is to construct the stand. This is made from 4 pieces of pre-cut ply. I glued with PVA and then inserted a small panel pin in each corner for added strength. Finish to taste, I used the usual sanding sealer and satin finish varnish.
   

   
   

2. Then the hull needs to be trimmed to remove excess molding and give the correct shape. Turn the boat upside down to do this and then cut downwards, then if you slip you only mark the waste to be trimmed and not the main hull. Start with vertical cuts at the front and the two 'rear corners'. I would suggest doing this trimming in three sections, transom and then the two sides. For each of these sections try to score a continuous cut first, then progressively cut deeper as you flex the sides, gradually they will split off. Finally give a fine sanding to tidy up the edges. I suggest keeping the excess parts trimmed off as they can be used to test adhesives, paints etc later.
   

   
   

3. Then drill the hull for the stern tube, needs a 7mm diameter hole for a snug fit (will be sealed with an acrylic adhesive later). The hole should be positioned just above the rear 'skeg'.
   
   

   
   

4. Then deck supporting strips go on. This involves taking pine strips of 3mm cross section and soaking them in water until flexible. They are then clamped in place to follow a line 3mm below the top of the hull. Use more clamps where there is the greatest angle of bend. As they dry the strips retain the shape and can then be glued in place.
   
   

   
   

   
   Mark centre of the transom and position stern doublers (these will reinforce the rudder attachment later).
   
   
5. The rear servo needs a support and this also holds the on/off switch. The board must be cut out to fit your switch and servo. Ultimately this switch will be accessible via the rear hatch so position the cuts accordingly. Note the line marking the centre, the servo was then positioned so that the shaft was on this axis. Once cut for servo and switch, the uprights are glued on, with PVA, use a small engineers square to ensure right angles. I also added some pieces of balsa for extra support. Finish with sanding sealer and varnish. The servo is mounted with rubber grommets which act as shock absorbers. The switch is screwed on with the on/off plate on top. Before fixing to the hull do a final position test with the deck and slide back or forth until access from the rear hatch is easiest, but still allowing room for the horn to rotate, then mark and glue.
   
   

   
   

6. Lay the deck against the plan and mark out the underside. Note that either side can be selected as the underside at this stage, it doesn't need to be a better or worse side as the top will be planked and so will not show, however once you decide which is the underside stick with it. You will need to cut lengths of pine strip and obeche block.
   
   You will find two of the deck strips have holes cut to thread the receiver ariel. I added a bit of flexibility by adding extra holes (I suggest a 2mm bit) so that all four of the deck strips have two holes for the ariel. This avoids the danger of placing the deck strips in the wrong alignment, with holes on opposite sides and gives more options for routing the ariel and for accomodating greater ariel lengths.
   
   Attach all the pieces to the underside. Once the glue has set, turn over the deck and glue in position on the hull. Thread the ariel through the holes to route as desired.
   
   This provides an opportunity to connect up all the RC elements in-situ and check that everything is still OK.
   
   

   
   

7. Planking is one of the jobs where you can be a little individual. The planks are 1mm by 5mm strips and can be cut and arranged to various patterns as desired. The basic idea is start in the centre and work outwards. Marking a pencil line to indicate the centre can be very helpful. I used a weatherproof PVA to glue the strips down.
   
   
   

   
   

8. Rubbing strakes are made up of two strips with a spacer strip between. The strips provided are not long enough and so you will need to cut scarf joints to extend the length. This is a simple joint and guidance is provided. Then the bow block is cut to fit with an angle at the front to meet the cap strip and another angle to sweep down to the deck. The block can be drilled for a flag pole if required.
   
   
   

   
   

9. The engine compartment is the next section of work. Much of this can be dry-fitted to work out the relative positions and ensure deck supports will be at the correct heights. This allows for the trial positioning of the gas tank, boiler/engine and the prop shaft. You will need to have clear access to the gas tank to refill but will also need enough room between the engine and prop shaft to include a coupling.
   
   

   
   

   Select a suitable coupling, in my case I had diameters of 5mm for the shaft from the engine and a 4mm shaft to the propellor. Scoonie hobbies were most helpful and recommended a unit made by Raboesch which allows for cardan style 26 spline 'adapters' to be inserted in each end to fit whatever size is required, in this case non-threaded M4 and M5. It is possible to join two of these with a double insert to make a double universal joint unit but be careful of the overall length, trial positioning indicated that a max distance of about 4cm between the two shaft ends would be required and so a single UJ arrangement would be the best fit.
   

   
   

   
   
   
10. An assortment of brass deck fittings were chosen from a selection available from Marten, Howes and Baylis. These included an anchor, flag pole, boat hook, fairleads and cleats.
    

    

    
    
    
11. For a flag I purchased a Red Ensign from BECC Model Accessories, ref GB03, size code E, length 75mm, width 37mm.
    

    

    
    
    

The Remote Control

There are many options here so this is just a quick guide. First pick a frequency range, for surface models in the UK the two options are 27MHz and 40MHz with the latter often being preferred as it offers a larger frequency range and therefore more channels. If you go for 27MHz then you will be on AM and will have two functions (often referred to as channels), this is a cheap option but should work OK as this model only requires rudder and regulator control. If you go for 40MHz then the next choice is AM or FM. Again AM will only support two functions but should work OK for this and is not too expensive so could be a good choice.
If you plan to do other steam boats and may in the future go for a slide valve engine instead of an oscillator then expect to need a minimum of three functions (rudder, regulator and reversing lever). This would then require a transmitter to control 3 or more functions and so 40MHz FM becomes the choice. With FM it is recommended that the receiver has dual conversion. Transmitter and receiver must be matched as PPM or PCM (some transmitters are switchable). I would suggest going the PPM route for this type of application.

It is possible to mix brands of transmitter, receiver and servo but note that not all combinations work together so it is easier to stick to a single brand throughout unless you take advice on specific combinations.

The basic requirement will be for two servos. One for rudder which can be something modest such as the Futaba S148 or the Futaba 3003 is an obvious choice. A second servo for the combined regulator and reverse control, again should not need to be anything too huge, perhaps the same as used for the rudder or a shade sturdier like the 3001.
Power will be in the form of rechargable cells providing 4.8 volt (4 x 1.2 from NiCads).

My choice has been 40MHz FM PPM with dual conversion.

1. I purchased a complete kit based around the Futaba Field Force 6. The kit comes with transmitter, receiver, crystals, 4 servos, NiCad rechargeable batteries, mains charger, switch harness, servo extension lead, assorted servo horns and fixings. The documentation is comprehensive (around 50 pages!). For surface model use make sure you buy the correct frequency - 40MHz for the UK.
   This kit is mainly aimed at use with airplanes but also comes in an alternative kit with an extra fifth servo and a giro for use with helicopters. In both cases these are sold as 35MHz for the UK - do not buy this frequency for use with boats.
   
   My kit was supplied with crystals 40.695 MHz, marked as Channel 53 (European notation) on the receiver crystal.
   
   
2. Transmitter - Field Force 6, 40MHz, PPM/PCM switchable. Can be programmed for up to six different models. Multi Function LCD display. Supports servo reverse, ATVs and trim memory. Audible battery level alarm.
   
   
   
   
3. A useful addition which is not supplied with the kit is a transmitter neck strap.
   
   
4. Receiver - Futaba R138DF, 40MHz FM PPM, dual conversion, supports up to 8 functions.
   
   Dimensions: 64 x 35 x 21 mm.
   Weight: 33g.
   Current Drain: 11mA.
   
   
5. Servo - Steering
   This is one of the Futaba S148 servos from the kit.
   Dimensions: 40 x 19 x 36 mm.
   Weight: 44g.
   Current Drain: 8mA.
   Rotation: 0.22 second for 60 degrees.
   
   I have fitted a type E horn (not supplied in the kit and not shown in this picture) although you can cut one of the supplied horns to the desired shape.
   
   
6. Servo - Engine control ...
   Again one of the Futaba S148 servos from the kit.
   
   
7. Before fitting in the boat, charge up the batteries, connect the various components and test that they are working as expected. Note that the servo for the engine is connected to the receiver on function 3, the servo for the rudder is on function 1. Other items required include a push rod, clevis, piano wire and servo horns.
   
   
   

Last revised 19 June 2009

Copyright © 2009 Duncan Astbury, all rights reserved.